What is French cuisine? I have asked this question to many people and to myself. To get an answer is harder than you think. For example, when you think of Italian cuisine, you will say immediately pizza, pasta. For Indian, it’s curry. For British, fish and chips. For Chinese, sweet and sour. But for French cuisine, what is your answer? Snails (escargots)? Croissants?

I was further introduced to French cuisine after marrying my Scottish husband, whose family, not unlike many British, is fascinated by French food and culture. Over the years, we have tried many different types of French food and cuisine. Here I will try to mention some that I think may represent what French cuisine is and I hope I can help answer the not-so-easy question of “What is French cuisine?” I take this answer from one of my friends as the best answer: “French cuisine is about using fresh local ingredients and bringing out the best of those ingredients with skills and artistry.” That explains why you seldom see heavy source in French cuisine.

Morels (morilles) is a type of cup fungi used in French cuisines a lot. The honey-comb liked head is what makes it distinctive. Apart from truffles, this is my favourite mushroom so far. It’s got a smokey favour and goes very well with beef or in a simple creamy mushroom sauce. I was lucky to acquire some in a small village on the French Alps. The same amount of morels (morilles) at Geneva airport was six times more expensive.

French food - morels (morilles)

Morels (Morilles) are used a lot in French food.

French food - morels (morilles)

Morels (Morilles) are used a lot in French food.

French food - morels (morilles)

Morels (Morilles) used in French cruisine: Filet de Boeuf du Simmental pure race saisi, l'epaule braisee aux morilles, millefeuille de petit pois, lard fume et moelle (Fillet of beef of Simmental purebred seized, shoulder braisee with Morels, yarrow small peas, smokedn Bacon and marrow)

More to come…

The dream started with a Japanese anime series from the 70s  called Heidi, Girl of the Alps (飄零燕) about an orphan Heidi who lived on the Alps. It is based on the Swiss novel “Heidi’s Years of Wandering and Learning” by Johanna Spyri (1880). Ever since watching the cartoon series, I always idealised that one day I could walk on the slopes of Alps and embrace Heidi’s free-spirit, purity and strength. Now seeing the cows and goats with bells on their neck, I cannot help feeling strange that sometimes in life your dream can be realized one day and presented so real in front of you. Heidi, may I join you?

Only years later did I have the chance to experience this when my husband’s family rented a chalet in Morzine on the French Alps and we were invited to go.

Morzine is a very small town and is one of the many ski resorts on the foothill of the Alps in France, close to the border of Switzerland and France. The chalet in Morzine we stayed in was called Chalet les Sapins, which is about one and 15 minutes drive from Geneva Airport.

What to see near Morzine:

Les Lindarets: only about 20 minuts’ drive from Morzine centre, you can arrive at the goat village Les Lindarets. The goat village is a small lovely village with many friendly wild goats, who are so used to tourists that they are not shy to come close to you to get food.

Lac de Montriond: only 10 minutes’ drive from Morzine centre, there is a beautiful alpine lake in Montriond. You can have lovely circular walk all around the lake. There are also two wonderful restaurants: Le Verdoyant and Le Bout du Lac, both serving fantastic food and with fantastic view of the lake. We tried both of them. Le Verdoyant is relative more casual restaurant with simpler menu. But it was very good with basic seafood. The white baits I had were wonderful. Le Bout du Lac is a bit more refined. We had the famous French cuisine frogs’ leg (cuisses de grenouille) and it’s simply the most delicious frogs’ legs I had ever had. Sorry if I offend any vegetarians here. But if you are in France, you can’t be too sentimental with animals, can you? I am just quoting Peter Mayle from his book “A Year in Provence“, in which he claims that “The English are too sentimental about animals, except those men who chase foxes, and they are mad.” (p.178)

Lac des Mines d’Or: drive or walk up the river running through Morzine, there’s Lac des Mines d’Or, also a lovely mountain restaurant there and wonderful views. Walk on up a track above the lake to Ferme de Freterolles which serves a rstic lunch, very charming and unusual.

Lake Geneva:  it’s only 45 mins’ to each Lake Geneva and there are many different towns around Lake Geneva can be explored either by a car or by taking a boat trip.

這個夢原自七+年代的一部日本動畫《飄零燕》, 描述一個孤女海蒂在阿爾卑斯山脈生活的苦與樂, 大部份是樂, 海蒂在山上的自由, 從自然界支取到的統真與堅毅, 令我神住, 想不到差不多要到四+年後的今天才有機會來尋找兒時的夢,  海蒂, 請容我跟你一同尋找人生的真與樂。這是法国腳下的其中一個小鎮 Morzine,冬季時是滑雪勝地, 夏季別有一翻景緻, 小時侯常看的卡通片段突然如夢景出現眼前.

Morzine, French Alps
On the hillslopes of the French Alps 傳統阿尔卑斯山雪山小屋

Morzine, French Alps
Chalet les Sapins – a Chalet in Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
Chalet les Sapins – a Chalet in Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
Outside Chalet Les Sapins -a Chalet in Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
Chalet les Sapins – a Chalet in Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
Chalet Les Sapins – a Chalet in Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
Chalet les Sapins – a Chalet in Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
To see the formidable Mont Blanc only takes 20 minutes’ drive. 要見威武的 Mont Blanc 只需二+分鐘車程

Morzine, French Alps
Sunset in Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
The Goat’s Village (Les Lindarets) near Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
The Goat’s Village (Les Lindarets) near Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
The Goat’s Village (Les Lindarets) near Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
The Goat’s Village (Les Lindarets) near Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
Lake Montriond, one of the alpine lakes near Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
Lake Montriond, one of the alpine lakes near Morzine

Morzine, French Alps
Lake Montriond, one of the alpine lakes near Morzine

Picking France as a holiday destination can be expensive. From my experience, the best value you can get without sacrifising quality too much is to stay in Logis (pronounciation similar to “lo shi” in French), an independently run lodging promoted and structured under an organisation called Logis de France in the beginning. The brand has since expanded outside France and also have logis in Belgium, Germany, Italy and Luxembourg. Therefore, it’s now called Logis Hotels instead of Logis de France. There are different gradings in terms of the rooms and the food. But you can always get good genuine French cooking from logis.  That’s what you will expect from logis and also what they try to achieve.

I have stayed in different logis in France with different gradings and with many different interesting stories. They have recently introduced a new category called The Logis d’Exception. From the surface of it, you know it should be exceptional. There’s only one in Provence region called Hostellerie du Val de Sault, which I tried last month. I am going to review it from my experience.

Booking
You can book through Logis Hotels web-site or call their Paris office, who will help you call the logis and book for you. The Paris office can handle English speaking very well. So it’s quite convenient to hand things over to them. But I chose a more challenging way which is to contact the hotel directly through email, thinking that it’s an exceptional hotel, their English should be ok. But I forgot, it’s still a logis, run mostly by French families and they are not chain hotels. This is the beauty of it, really. With my sporadic French vocabulory and their minimal English, there were some misunderstandings in terms of when the deposit would be charged. Calling them was no use. It only made the situation worse. We just set off with confidence that things would be fine.

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Finding Hostellerie du Val de Sault
It’s not too difficult to find the logis. Once you arrive the village centre of Sault, you will see signage all the way through. It’s only about 5 minutes’ drive from the Sault centre.

Reception
Upon arriving, all anxiety disappeared. Flanked by poppies and lavenders and then tall trees, we were taken into a beautiful land in the middle of a forest. Dotted with small charasteristic houses, Hostellerie du Val de Sault appeared in front of our eyes. Not typical chain hotel as it is, you won’t see any bell boys, doorman or concierge manager. It’s complete tranquility. We spotted a small house in the front of the huge area. There’s a sign out there saying “Reception”. We know where to go. Stepping in, we were welcomed with a big grin from Patrick, who’s eager to leave as it’s almost 5. Provencal life style! But Patrick was truly helpful and so relaxed.

Hostellerie du Val de Sault Reception Hostellerie du Val de Sault

Apart from Patrick, there’s also Pierre the Peacock welcoming us. We called him Pierre because he’s French!

Rooms
Our rooms are not in the main complex. They are situated about 2 minutes’ drive from the main hotel. It’s called Villa Yvette, where the owner lives. Yes, we were staying in the owner’s house! It’s a big house. Half of it was rented out to guests. It has got 3 en-suite rooms with a private swimming pool and it’s a lot cheaper than the rooms in the main hotel. We paid €125/person/day including B&B+dinner while the rooms in the main hotel would have cost €165. That’s the main reason we chose Villa Yvette.

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It was such a charming villa with view open to a valley and poppy fields.

Apart from a very minor plumbing problem in the bath  (typical of France especially when you are in the rural area), everything was pristine and we were very pleased.

Food
All Logis d’Exception should have at least the standard of 3 pots or Table of Distinction,which is equal to Michilin standard restaurant. Hestellerie du val de Sault has the rating of Table of Distintion and it did not disappoint us. The chef Yves Gattechaut lived up to the expectation of a Michilin starred restaurant and logis. It’s simple, elegant using lots of local ingredients. I always wonder how would you describe French food. One of my friends summed up in a brilliant way “A French chef will try to release the geniune favour from the food itself.”  That’s why you don’t see lots of curry or spices in French food. And Yves’ cooking was exactly like that. From a simple home cured meat from local lambs to tomato mousse with local herbs, it’s just so good.

Friendliness
The hotel has been running by Yves Gattechaut for 17 years. Yves’ daughter Eva was a darling. Her no-pressure genuine hospitality made you feel so welcomed and well attended. The wine she recommended with a very resonable price was excellent. Hurah to Eva !

Surrounding Areas
There are so much to explore near Sault. Apart from hunting for lavender fields in the summer, the famous characteristic villages Gordes and Rousillon are only about 30-40 mins’ drive away. Of course, Hostellerie du val de Sault has its own spa, indoor pool and walking trails in the forest. All you need is time.

Overall, I give a 8/10 to Hostellerie du val de Sault. The 2 points are to do with the French plumbing problem.

Hope you have a pleasant stay.

Starting from mid-Jun, the lavender plants will start to bloom in many parts of Provence, France. It will last until mid August, when farmers start to harvest the lavender and make them into all different types of scented products we love today: lavender oil, lavender soap, lavender lotion, lavender herbs, you name it.
06-2009-provence-424
But Provence is very big. Where exactly can we see the lavender fields (Champs de Lavande in French – meaning lines and lines of lavender)? I have just been back from a lavender hunting trip and can share some of my experience.

The only thing I could find from the search engine was an image which shows patches of lavender fields in Provence area. I used the map and a bit of my own experience in the area since it’s my third time and managed to find some beautiful Champs de Lavande in the early stages of the blooming season.

Thanks to the help of a French Tourism Office, I got this map of Routes de Lavande (the routes of Lavender), which I am going to share with you and anyone who are passionate about Provence. The map shows the routes of where the lavender fields are and I found it very useful especially if you are driving a car. You can click to enlarge.

Routes_of_Lavender_Provence

We stayed in Sault en-Provence (circled white above). Sault is in high altitude. From the village centre viewing point, you can have a panoramic view of many fields of Lavender down in the valley especially in the peak season of July. From here, it’s only about 30-40 minutes drive to the popular villages of Gordes and Roussillon. If you take a small road from Sault (D943 and then D230) and pass St-Saturnin-les-Apt before going to Gordes or Roussillon, you will be able to catch a lot of lavender fields along the way already. This is not shown exactly on the map above.

Gordes, a Renassiance town and Roussillon, a village built on red earth are definitely worth visitng by the way.

From Sault, take D950 to Banon, you will be able to see some beautiful lavender fields and the bonus French poppy fields as you can see from the photos below.

Another wonderful route to see Lavender is on the way to and out of Valensole (circled white in the map above) through D15 and D6. On these roads, you will see the lavender fields which are so big that you cannot see where they end. With the summer breeze, comes the wonderful smell of lavender. There is no other place on earth you will want to be in.

Lavender hunting in Provence is fun and the area is so big. If you follow the map above and some of my tips, you’ve got to bump into a few at least. Do not need to be bothered with joining the large group lavender tours. Just hire a car and do your own adventure. You have all the time you need and take as many pictures as you want. Although, there’s a difference between the West and the East about taking pictures in traveling as I pointed it out in my other post Some interesting cutural differences between East and West with the following picture:

traveling

Lavandin
One thing I have learnt from this trip isthat there’s a separate species very similar to lavender called lavandin. So I was told that lavandin was a hybrid species in the sage family and it could produce 4 times more oil than lavender. We bumped into a shop in Ste-Croix de-Verdon on the west edge of lake Ste-Croix (Lac de Ste-Croix), which sold mainly lavandin products. I took a photograph of one of the products, which shows what lavandin is like. The buds are bigger than lavender’s. Lavender in French is lavande and this hybrid species is called lavandin.

lavandin-a-hybrid-species-to-lavender

Hope you will like Provence as much as I like it. Click here to see more photos of lavender in Provence. The pictures were taken in mid-June, when the lavender season had just started. Imagine, what will it be like when it’s in peak season? I can’t wait to revisit my beloved Provence again.

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I just came back from a trip to Provence and had the most wonderful steak tartare I’ve ever had. Curious as usual, I was very eager to find out how did the name tartare come from. What does it mean? Is steak tartare originated from France? Is tartare a French word?

First, the meaning of steak tartare. A quick seach in Google, most definition sites give it a meaning of raw finely chopped beef served with onion etc. etc. I was convinced that the term “steak tartare” was used to refer to this type of serving of beef or other raw meat and tartare does not mean raw. After some more digging, most sources including Wikipedia refer to the origin of the word tartare to the nomadic Tatar (or Tartar) people, who are Turkic (a broad ethenic group including Turks and many Central and Asian people) from Northeast of Mongolia. The story goes that when Tatar people invaded Europe, for the convenience sake, they often ate raw meat.

There’s also another belief that tatar later on became tartar because it took on a Greek word Tartarus, meaning hell. Some source said that it negatively refered to the Tatar invasion.

If you go to the French Wikipedia site and search for tartare. Then use Google translation to English, you will see that one entry of tartare was translated to Tartarus.

No matter what, I believe that the origin of steak tartare came from the Tatar race, who ate raw meat, not because it was served with tartare sauce in the beginning as some sources quoted.

The earliest description of the steak tartare is in 1875 according to the French Wikipedia source.

Today, seasoning ingredients used include salt, pepper, capers, parsley and onion finely chopped with a dash of Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco all linked with a raw egg yolk and good quality olive oil. Oh, the meat, it was sirloin I had. Fresh of course.

I was lucky to try the steak tartare in a logis in Menton (Provence) recently served with traditional mouth-watering chips. I took a video. The quality is not particularly good. But you get an idea. Très bon.

Making Steak Tartare in a logis in Menton, Provence, part 1 of 3

Making Steak Tartare in a logis in Menton, Provence, part 2 of 3

Making Steak Tartare in a logis in Menton, Provence, part 3 of 3

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